One for the future...Yasmin Bawa

Yasmin Bawa is currently a Menswear student at Middlesex University who has sent through her pre-collection, entitled Lattice, for our viewing pleasure. This honours student has taken this opportunity to gather press, media and most importantly feedback on her design work. Bawa has found time to complete a seven look capsule collection and accompanying film. Along with the obvious creative talent it demonstrates she has the business nous to promote her debut offering through the blogosphere. We were surprised and excited when we opened the speculative email from the young talent and had to share it with you. In addition to the film and a selection of stills, the student has sent through a few scans of her research book.

Bawa looked to the hugely popular photography project Family Stuff by Huang Qingjun and Ma Hongjie for initial inspiration. If you are not familiar with the project, it documents the homes of fifty (and ever growing) rural Chinese homes, sees the family with all of their possessions taken from inside their house and placing it outside. The series shows the original artwork and furniture mixed in with modern appliances. Every facet of contemporary life in China is on display, including evidence of those that have changed and remained during this period of modernisation. Bawa's collection combines elements from these rural Chinese villages and the traditional lattice design artwork with a more technical element, showing the social change taking place as modern culture seeps its way into these homes and families.

Inspiration wall.

A look inside Bawa's sketchbook depicting lattice work, fabric swatches and inspirations.

Another look inside her sketchbook and assortment of inspirations for each look.

Chinese lattice work was a huge inspiration for the prints used throughout the collection.

The seven looks sketched.

The battle between traditional and modern elements runs courses through the veins of the seven piece collection to beautiful effect. Natural fabrics, hand dying and screen prints echo the traditional element whilst laser etched prints on cotton drill and leather shows off the use of modern technology. Gradient effects on the fabrics add a further emphasis on the sense of change that is taking place all around the famlies depicted in the photography project, with one colour slowly taking over the next. As a menswear collection it showcases classic shapes whilst creating a whole new look with the colours, prints, function and detailing.

LATTICE Installation hand in

There are times when images just aren't enough. Thankfully, upon the completion of this capsule collection, Bawa soon decided to showcase her designs with a film by Liam Simpson. The design talent was inspired by Carolyn Massey's stunning SS11 film.
 

We think we'll be hearing a lot more from this creative talent in the near future. However, if you are impatient, you can follow the student's progress via her blog.

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Menswear Day Preview... Shaun Samson SS12

Shaun Samson's SS12 lineup

In precisely one weeks time we will be half way through a packed Menswear Day schedule. We would have Asd been amazed by Anderson, seduced by Shannon, dazzled by Dalton and moved by MAN. As we countdown to the big day, it is the latter that is causing our blogging pulse to race. Since its inception, MAN has created a whole new momentum in the London menswear scene. Season after season, it grows in profile and importance but the SS12 lineup marks an energised beginning. The talent showcase is all about heralding what’s new in menswear but this lineup is one of the most exciting to date. Martine Rose shows for the third time and is joined by two newcomers, Matthew Miller and Shaun Samson. Now, regular readers will know that Miller is no newbie in our eyes. His work has impressed us for a number of years now and after capturing the collective imagination with his AW11 presentation, his addition to the show lineup marks a much deserved step forward for the design talent. Samson on the other hand is a recent discovery. 

Having stood out with his seamless MA collection of harmoniously fused knits and plaids earlier this year, we met up the California born graduate to learn more about his needle punch felting technique. As we were talked through the design process of his AW11 collection, we could not help ourselves from peeking at what he had in store for us on Menswear Day. Here, we take a look at how colourful Mexican blankets sparked a renewed love affair with his homeland and accompany his words with a few studio shots....

"I was initially really attracted to these Mexican blankets. They are everywhere in California. However, it wasn't until I moved here and away from them for a couple of years before returning that I saw them in a new light. I'd never think to put these colours together but for some reason they work.  They are made in the traditional way by Mexicans and use whatever yarns they have at that time. No two blankets are the same which is great except for when it comes to production but I'll figure it out. The blankets are so nice themselves that I can't over design the garment."

Shaun Samson on the starting point for the collection and the confident use of colour in the blankets.

" From the blankets, I reminisced about growing up in California; the surfers, the grunge and the gangster rap movement."
Shaun Samson on the evolution of design influences from the blankets.

"I'm also experimenting with one off pieces that I won't produce, mixing vintage garments and pushing the aesthetic that bit more"
Shaun Samson hinting at what we can expect to see on Menswear Day
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Style Stalking... Imelda Matt

You might think that the phrase 'style stalking' is an exaggeration, but this time you'd be wrong. Ever since we laid eyes on Imelda Matt in a gold suit we knew we just had to get him to do a style diary for us. After months (no, really) of chasing, cajoling and downright begging, he agreed. For those of you who don't know him (shame on you!), here's a little background: since unleashing Her Royal Highness Imelda the Despotic Queen of Shoes on an unsuspecting blogosphere more than four years ago, his sharp tongued take on the wonderful world of women's shoes has brought many a smile to our faces. It has been a firm favourite in our blogroll for as long as we can remember. More recently he launched the aesthetically pleasing Style Tyrant, a street style blog that focuses on the men of Melbourne. Just check out this guy if you need convincing!

Here's what Matt has to say for himself about his style diary:

“Gurrl! Haz you been tokin’ on the crackpipe?” was the Despotic Queen/Style Tyrants response when Eliza asked if I’d consider doing a style diary!

Over the course of the last four years (during which time I’ve been blogging full-time) my bank balance and thus my wardrobe has been on life support.

Blame the GFC. Blame blogging. But for whatever reason, two and half years ago and in dire need of new threads, I started ‘shopping my wardrobe’, hence in lookin’ at my old rags?

But revisiting my purchases of yesteryear with older (albeit wiser) eyes has been a fascinating exercise. Aside for a few key pieces (Orri Henrrison and Subfusco) approximately 90% what I wear was bought during my 20’s.

Obviously, to accommodate my shifting taste my old rags have given a spit and polish. However, for as cash strapped blogger from the 3rd World I’m kinda impressed with how those early buys have stood the test of time.

These photographs are not a study of sartorial chicanery - what you see, is what you get!

The wait was well worth it though, we are absolutely delighted with the images. When the diary dropped in to our inbox the collective squeal of excitement deafened neighbours. No doubt this style diary will brighten up your weekend...

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Day One - Double Denim

Denim jacket is vintage JAG, Shirt from H&M, the jeans are ‘ready for the bin’ and shoes are vintage Hutton’s Playboy creepers

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Day Two - Subfusco

Entire outfit (including the Patrick Bateman vinyl blazer) from Subfusco, shoes by Pierre Hardy

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Day Three - Orri

Jacket and pants by Orri Henrisson, shirt from Saint Augustine Academy and boots picked up in Tokyo

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Day Four - Armani

Trousers are Giorgio Armani S/S 96, belt is Dolce & Gabanna circa 02, knit Arthur Gallan

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Day Five - Helmut

Jacket is Helmut Lang ‘98, trousers are Dolce & Gabanna S/S ‘97 and the shoes are by Max Kibardin

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Day Six - Gucci Belt

Gucci Belt – Jacket by Orri Hennrisson, vintage trousers, belt by Gucci S/S 97, shoes from Kenneth Cole and watch by Nixon

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Day Seven - Burberry

Pants from Burberry, Shirt by RESTERÖDS, Cardigan from Tiger House (Japan), Shoes from ZARA, vintage belt and rings by ATAT

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Summer Soaring

Over the last few seasons, Tim Soar has designed collections that are both warm and familiar yet undeniably modern. They have have many overlapping memories and echoes from the past but still manage to look forward and feel fresh. Soar has offered his take on the greatest hits of menswear and the results have provided collections fit for any modern day gentleman. Timeless elegance. For Soar, each season is not about the exploration of a unique silhouette and then moving on but rather it is about taking different elements and putting them together in a way that is a coherent whole. The themes, riffs and references are there to be seen and are developed each season. My most recent Soar piece encapsulates these points wonderfully...

Silk shirt by Tim Soar worn with suit by Comme des Garçons Ganryu and King Tubby's by Mr Hare.

Now, regular readers should recall how enamoured I was by Soar's AW10 collection and that I added two key items to my wardrobe as a result. I was particularly taken with Soar's silk dress shirts. They were fascinating and represented a good part of the inspiration behind the entire collection because they were from the 70s but they felt Victorian at the same time. There were equal influences within them, two periods. The length and the volume of the shirt means that is caught somewhere between loose and fitted. As an aesthetic going forward, I think an area between loose and fitted is a good place to be and I've enjoyed experimenting with volume and silhouette much more since owning my shirt.  

For SS11, Soar was drawn to the wardrobe of David Bowie in Nicholas Roeg’s film ‘The Man Who Fell To Earth’. As Thomas Newton, Bowie's wardrobe explores the moment where the excesses of Seventies style culture (the big flares, the wide lapels and long lines) are about to mutate into the New Wave utilitarian aesthetic. It is a wonderful mix of formal men’s tailoring with technical undergarments and sportswear. And this, for Soar, is the very essence of modern menswear. His silk printed dress shirt is the perfect example. Here he took the silhouette, the mood and softness of them and took them one stage further by adding an abstract, colourful digital print. It makes them slightly trickier, it takes them out of themselves and adds an element of surprise. I could not resist in adding this evolved item to my wardrobe...

The abstract, colourful and bold digital print certainly adds an element of surprise.

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PETROU\MAN SS11

Almost a year to the day I first encountered the design work of Nicolas Petrou. The launch of PETROU\MAN deservedly received a fair bit of blog love (with Filep Motwary first out of the blocks) as folks were all excited to see the Cypriot designer turn his hand to menswear for SS10. The fanciful images he created for the look book which aim to represent elements of everyday life certainly capture the eye and the imagination. Inspired by men's active sportswear, the debut offering is a mix of patterns, mesh and is a reinterpretation of classic jackets and shirts. I quickly became a fan and was then fortunate enough to document his sophomore collection during New York Fashion Week back in February. I was able to witness first hand the designer's skill in creating a rich, unusual texture achieved through his combination of fabrics and prints. It also allowed opportunity to marvel at the intricate, hand finish detailing including hand dyed tartan suits and embroidered shirts and jackets celebrating the nomads much used tool; the humble safety pin. The collection confirmed that this exciting designer was one to watch and I for one was hooked.

Shots by Nicolas Petrou illustrating the mix of prints.

I have been itching to reveal his vision for SS11 ever since I first heard positive murmurings about it over on Selectism during their coverage of Capsule. Having caught sight of the super soft denim and attention grabbing madras, I was eager to see more and dropped Nicolas an email. Remarkably, he soon replied with a selection of iphone shot images that he snapped while showcasing the collection to buyers and press alike at one of the many US trade shows. This is the collection I've been crying out for all season. Now that most of the buying business has been carried out, Petrou and his team have shot a wonderful look book which I can happily share with you but first a few words from the designer himself on the key inspirations...

"As workwear and heritage lifestyle make way for vintage surf inspiration, Nicolas Petrou combines them all in one unique form with his spring/summer 2011 PETROU\MAN collection. Washed fabrics and hand sewn madras prints are combined with twill and high-tech touches to maximize garments’ breathability and sportswear fusion. Soft denim suiting, pleated trousers, and 50’s inspired tribal prints cut proportions in a manner that defies tradition."

Look book credits: Model: Lyle Lodwick (RED). Photography: Idris and Tony. Styling: Julie Ragolia. Hair & Grooming: Sylvia Dimaki.

The washed fabrics, soft denim tailoring, hand sewn madras and 50s inspired tribal cuts come together beautifully to create a collection to truly covet. Petrou is a designer who mixes fabrics and prints with great skill and his demonstration of craftsmanship never ceases to surprise me. Now, I have to confess that I have spent the last few weeks longing to press the fast forward button on this summer season as my wardrobe screams out for autumnal layering of rich fabrics. Somehow, this collection manages to force me to rethink my haste. I'd happily press pause on this season and live in a constant state of heat and sweat in the capital if I could cool myself off in one of these designs. The collection will of course be presented during NY Fashion Week for buyers and will be styled by Robbie Spencer once again. Having been treated to such a beautiful sneak preview of this PETROU/MAN collection, I'm looking forward to New York even more.

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