Casely-Hayford SS11: The Light Through the Darkness


Much of the last twelve months have whizzed right by me, a great deal has been forgotten for one reason or another. There have, however, been a few moments which have seen the dazzlingly fast rotating clock hands stop completely, allowing me ample opportunity to soak up the scene before me. Thankfully time was stopped during my visit to the SS11 Showroom Next Door and my heart still skips a beat or two as memories of Casely-Hayford's The Light Through the Darkness fills my memory. Having enthused over the collection back in September, it is my absolute pleasure to offer first sight of the look book with you...

Cover image; Circeo washed shirt jacket in deep red cotton, Azuil collarless shirt in white Panama cotton, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey.

Casely-Hayford's fifth collection consolidates their now signature style of relaxed masculine proportions, fused with an injection of London's cocktail of youth culture. Since its inception, the label has explored the intriguing duality of English sartorialism and British anarchy but now shapes a unique aesthetic that sees the emergence of the 'Sartorial Nomad' from the shadows of the darkened sensibility of their Afro Punk of the season before. Here, Casely-Hayford visit the the idea of the transcultural traveler, whose identity is an amalgamation of the many countries and influences that once or now surround him.

Looking at this collection, I'm reminded of the photography of Etienne Dehau. In his book about the Bedouin tribes and nomadic peoples of Arabia, the photographer took us to the heart of this immense region, tracking the ancient incense route and the nomadic Bedouins. Dehau's wonderful photographs illustrated the culture of these Arabs – a word that originally meant ‘people of the desert’ – as they move from camp to camp within a land that is both hostile and overwhelming. For SS11, Casely-Hayford have reimagined the nomad. The taletend design duo turn to the purity and tranquil energy of the Bedouin nomad in order to seek out something real and something minimal negating the excess so prevalent during the last decade. The Light Through the Darkness communicates ideas of a rebirth for a new decade. There is a discordant synergy is brought to the forefront of the collection as exquisite tailoring is worn over nomadic white shirts, referencing looks often seen in the confluence of London's East End. Here, the cut is unrestrictive and loose yet it still manages to remain masculine and athletic. Fabrics are natural, colours earthy and the silhouette voluminous but minimal...

Left; Moonstone jacket in grey tarmac wool, Lapis pale grey herringbone drawstring jacket, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey, Brett olive jersey l/s t shirt and Turbeville allotment creeper. 
Right; Luxor stone cotton workwear jacket with turned black hem and Cinnabar navy ribbed cotton fatigue pants.
 
Left; Volga gathered coat in greige wool,  Azul white Panama cotton collarless shirt, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Turbeville allotment creeper. 
Right; Circeo washed shirt jacket in grey/check reverse cotton, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Aldous 2SB, greige wool jacket, Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt. Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey and Isherwood brown leather sandals. 
Right; Marmor marine cotton knit cardigan with Touareg pattern front, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Arandis grey ribbed cotton waistcoat, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.
Right; Tropf bi-colour minimal Mac, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy/black cotton,  Afyon scoop neck stone crushed jersey t-shirt, Cinnabar stone ribbed cotton fatigue pants.
Right; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Anatol white cotton Chino, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy in khaki cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.
Right; Belvoir navy canvas reversible coat, Agra bellows pocket waistcoat in navy organic cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Left; Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.
Right; Aldous 2SB greige wool jacket, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Basalto flat front trouser in greige wool and Bentley brown leather quilted slipper. 

Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Look book credits
Photography: Katinka Herbert
Photography assistant: Christopher Kennedy
Art direction: Casely-Hayford & Son
Model: Yussef Yu, Fine Artist.
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Front row blogging

Happy New Year!

Exclusive: Casely-Hayford SS10 Look Book and Interview

The Casely-Hayford duo applying the finishing touches to their wonderful offering at Menswear Day.

Before the festive break we mentioned that we would have an exclusive gift for you on the 29th and right on time, we can now deliver our late Christmas present to you....the first look at Casely-Hayford's SS10 look book along with an interview with our favourite design duo. One of the real highlights of the extended Menswear Day back in September was Casely-Hayford's collection entitled Kings of the Kings Land. Inspired by the raw energy of Kingsland Road (where their studio is based) they unveiled a new style tribe, the 'Afropunk.' For the benefit of those who live outside of London, this seemingly unique and unconventional corner of the city is where original EastEnders co-exist with the more recently landed public school boys. This incongruous social mix conjures up a rich sartorial vocabulary which the Casely-Hayford's have used to create a new English style.

The first look at Casely-Hayford's SS10 look book.

Steve left the Fashion East Menswear Installations inspired by what he had seen but was impatient to learn more about this collection in particular. With this in mind, we caught up with Charlie and Joe to talk about the collection in more detail and to find out about their exciting plans for the year ahead whilst revealing their SS10 look book for the very first time...

A new form of sartorial mix. English Wedgewood style fused with Turkish Ottoman prints.

SS: The collection was inspired by the sights and sounds of Dalston's infamous road, Kingsland Road. What is it about this part of East London which makes it so special and so inspiring?
Casely-Hayford: We've always been interested in the idea of 'the trans-cultural' - an enriched summation of many cultures to create a unified whole, forming a sartorial mix which is unique to the UK and possibly at it's most direct in London. For us, this area of London perfectly captures the spirit simply by walking from one end of the Kingsland Road to the other. It is possible to experience some of the worlds most prominent cultures, and we wanted to echo this mood in our collection. We are excited by the way that new conclusions are drawn from this cultural fusion.

The English DNA of the brand is fused with the colour and ornamentation of beautiful prints and hard-egded far-eastern embellishments.

SS: Your first two collections have seen you fuse elements of traditional English tailoring with facets of sportswear and this one sees you continue this sartorial cocktail with the unexpected addition of African elements to the mix. Do these combinations reflect the two of you in anyway, or perhaps the interchange and evolution of your own aesthetics?
Casely-Hayford: It wasn't so much the African element that initially enticed us - it was the similarities between the powerful youth culture of London Punks and the age-old aesthetics of traditional tribal wear. The synergy between the two seemed interesting and relevant to an emerging subculture that was as of yet undefined. We were able to retain the English DNA of the brand whilst fusing it with the colour and ornamentation of these beautiful prints and hard-egded far-eastern embellishments.

A unique combination of the delicacy of the Casely-Hayford aesthetic mixed with the raw energy of the anarchic youth created a trans cultural sartorial punk that we came to define as the 'Afropunk'. All the essential Casely-Hayford elements are still central to our statement, we are simply introducing another facet.

We have spent a lot of time discussing how we define culture and both agree that it is something which is not static. For each generation there is a defining point. We felt that with this collection we could begin to touch on an aesthetic shift from one decade to the next.

Introducing the Afropunks

SS: You unveiled the 'Afropunk', as part of the extended Menswear Day at LFW, how has the reaction been to your new style tribe? And did you have a chance to enjoy the day at all?
Casely-Hayford: The reaction has been overwhelming! We didn't really expect it. It's funny that through making a stronger visual statement we seem to have connected with a wider audience. People have been keen to embrace our vision. The Casely-Hayford sartorial mood prevails but through countering cliched notions of luxury we have been able to celebrate fine craftsmanship in a modern context.

It is always difficult presenting a personal statement to the public where the designer's intention transcends the power of the viewer's interpretation, but throughout the day we were pretty surprised by the positive reaction we received from a wide and diverse range of individuals.

Rather than doing a runway show, from the very beginning we made a decision that our seasonal statement would be in the form of a selection of images that reflected the brand identity. We are interested in creating something for the few, rather than reaching out to every man. Last LFW was an exception that appealed to us because it was the 25th anniversary. The Menswear Day was significant in finally creating something credible for buyers and press in London that wasn't dominated by womenswear.

Relaxed, luxurious tailoring... English Wedgewood style.

SS: The moment Steve walked in to your space inside Somerset House's East Wing, he was struck by how meticulously styled and cast the collection was and this has been continued through to the look book. Do you enjoy the styling aspect? What was the inspiration for the ornate embellishment of Turkish prints?
Casely-Hayford: I think there are very few designers that style their own collections. But it is a major part of the process for us. There's such a strong narrative behind each garment, the story would be incomplete if the stylistic vision was not carried through with exacting measure. We felt that the ornate patterns formed the perfect cross over point between English Wedgewood style and Turkish Ottoman prints.


The "hankersleeves" featured in the look book and presentation seem to have caught a lot of people's attention. We were looking at tribal notions of beauty and wanted to utilise the metal hoops that various African tribes use to elongate areas of their body such as the neck and arms. We used colourful hand rolled silk handkerchiefs from Suffolk to anglicise the look and make it our own.

A closer look at the much talked about 'hankersleeves'.

SS: 2009 has been a huge year for Casely-Hayford, what have been the highlights for you both?
Casely-Hayford: It's been an amazing year. Being approached by several top international retailers was a major endorsement of what we are doing. Collaborating with Swaroskvi on their first ever menswear project along with Lanvin and Phillip Lim has been really exciting... and working on this new project with John Lewis has been so fulfilling. I don't think there's been anything like it before - it's essentially a celebration of 'the Best of British' under one umbrella. Each season my father will be designing a complete wardrobe and collaborating with some of the most highly respected British heritage brands for John Lewis to create new unique garments. We received some of the samples just before Christmas and they look really strong. The first items should be in store from the end of February. Lulu inviting us to take part in London Fashion Week as part of Fashion East was obviously also another highlight of the year.

We are sure to replicate Casely-Hayford'd styling when the warm sunshine returns next year.

SS: What are you looking forward to in 2010? And...can you share any hints as to what you'll be showing in February 2010 and beyond?
Casely-Hayford: 2010 will hopefully be a year of greater international expansion for the brand. We've been approached by some interesting stores over the last few months who we hope to work with in the near future.

Autumn is a little darker and harder than previous collections, Focusing more on craftsmanship and quality... but once again pushing the boundaries of English sartorialism and British anarchy.

Two final looks at SS10 before we begin looking forward to the year ahead.

Travel Organised


Smythson of Bond Street is one of the UK's most revered luxury leather goods labels. Established in 1887 by Frank Smythson, an entrepreneur and inventor of the brand's signature blue Featherweight paper, Smythson's attention to detail and quality craftsmanship quickly found favor with an elite clientele. Today, the company boasts three Royal warrants and the Prime Minister's wife as Creative Director. It has always been more than a mere stationary shop. It is something of an institution on one of London's most revered retail streets. I have often walked past, peered inside and resisted temptation to venture in to this unfamiliar but fine smelling world (oh I do love the scent of leather). Thankfully, despite my nervous disposition, I am now a proud owner of a Smythson item.


This Christmas, my sister and brother-in-law have come up trumps in the gifting trumps. After being spoiled rotten in recent years, with gifts ranging from a Le Creuset pot to Bose headphones, they have excelled in both the fine art of giving and gratuitous art of spoiling. This Passport Holder comes in butter soft Nile Blue calfskin leather. It is something that I'd never buy myself but I am now so pleased that someone has. The travel organiser comes with two subtly embossed pockets for a passport and boarding pass. I no longer have an excuse for either losing or fumbling with my travel documents.


Despite being hugely comfortable in front of the television with a mind boggling amount of food this festive season, this present makes me long to travel. Here's to a jet setting 2011.

Clipping File Roundup

I'm sure you have a pile of images you collect over time. You like them, or you make a mental note to use them in a future post you have in mind. Or sometimes the image itself generates an idea for writing something.

Once or twice a year, I clean off the desk top, and get rid of the images I haven't used.

Since my blog is now under threat of being deleted by those who don't care for my big mouth, or mean girl antics, I felt rather in a hurry to use these images.


What makes you choose an image? I think I chose the giant cup cake to use in a what's out post, but gee I really like cupcakes, big or small, so there the image sat on my desk.


I chose this one to send to Erin at House of Turquoise, or maybe to use for a post for another blog I write at work.

I liked this sultry chic chick for a possible Fourth of July post.


I collect open shelving in funky kitchen images to validate my own funky bordello kitchen. It makes me feel better when I see a glossy magazine shot that kind of looks like my crappy kitchen. At least in my minds eye ha ha.

Here's another kitchen image. I have a trash can like this.


And I love and prefer old fashion bathrooms instead of the huge (and IMO ha ha) ugly spa bathrooms that are routinely placed in new home construction, or used in a renovation of an old house.


This is Melissa's pug. She sent me this photo. I know she has a blog, but I can't remember it right now. I am an old woman with no memory. But I will find it later, and give her proper linkage.


This is from Martha Stewart's blog The Daily Wag. For some reason I love this blog the best of anything Martha does.

This is what some of you would like to do - send my blog packing.

I love this closet, so I kept this image on my desk for months.


I meant to send this to Fifi Flowers, but forgot. I'm sure she already has it, being the great Paris-ophile that she is.


Christmas clippings got out of hand! I have a pile of card display images that I never posted. They were generated when Alberto asked me to display the Christmas cards we got. Christmas cards by snail mail are getting rarer and rarer, and we wanted to savor looking at them. This was my favorite display. Maybe I'll use the two dozen other images I clipped for next year.


Here's another one for Erin of House of Turquoise, or maybe for another rehash about the color trend for 2010 - turquoise! Or maybe for the shop - we sell alot of pretty glass like this.

This one I stole from Jenny at My Favorite and My Best, because I like artful bugs as decor. I really like many forms of specimen charts and art. Musty be the creepy crawly side of me.


I love the gray color wash on the walls, and this witty Mora clock is from Ikea for around $100., and for some reason that makes me laugh when you think of all the expensive Mora clocks all the nice (and rich) girls are using in their decorating projects. The red bed is right up my bordello alley too.

Here's another one for Erin. Don't think I'm stalking her. How can you not save an image for a person who blogs about this one particular color?


A Murphy bed for dogs! I think I was going to do a pet gift roundup, but was boring myself to tears with the thought of another gift guide. Plus the image is so old that the site link to buy it doesn't have it in stock any longer.


Another beautiful funky kitchen! Man I must be very insecure about my kitchen to keep pulling images like this!

You want to know where I got these? Well if I can remember...
apartment 34 (who gets them from everywhere else)
Jenny MFAMB
Melissa via e-mail
and Google Images.
If you see something I used that you need credit for, you know where I live.

Does Your Furniture Talk?

How many times have you rearranged the furniture in a room? What makes you jump up from the couch and start to push it around? Does it whisper in your ear and say "move me"?

The after Christmas lull gets me moving on small projects, like rearranging furniture. I take my Christmas decorations down on January 7, the day after Three Kings Day. Moving the furniture is a prelude to the post-Christmas refresh.


I have a small living room, no family room, so the living room is well-used. There is not one clear wall in the space, that is, not one wall without doors or windows. It's a tricky little room to get just right.


Visual Vamp Living Room
Pattern chair, lime green silk drapes, drawing of Cholo by PVE
Walls are a softer version of Billy Baldwin brown



It's no secret that I was influenced by the interior decorator Mr. Billy Baldwin at a tender age. To me the rooms he created were the filled with things I loved: color, books, flowers, pictures, pattern, sophistication, a mix of high and low furnishings, furniture arranged for conversation, rooms filled with warmth and interest.



I never intended to slavishly copy a Baldwin room, yet somehow so many things I saw in those rooms have trickled down in a modest way into my decor choices, personally and professionally.



I rearranged the furniture in the living room so that furniture is "talking to one another".
The French settee is now placed facing the sofa, in front of the double doors that are at the entrance. At first I was concerned it would block the way. But with a little nudging and tweaking I managed to allow enough room to pass in and out of the room.



I love seeing the back of the settee. I also love bringing back the lime slip covered wing chair and ottoman. The chaise lounge is in the guest room now. Moving furniture from room to room really makes a room feel new again.

Visual Vamp Living Room
Portraits of Kenny, Michael Pelkey, and Audrey Hepburn


When you sit on the camel back sofa and look out, the new arrangement of furniture provides a cozy cocoon.

Visual Vamp Living Room
Portrait of Marilyn Monroe by Mario Ortiz

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